Ocenite etot tekst:


---------------------------------------------------------------
 From: anya@rocketmail.com
 original etoj istorii raspolozhen na stranichke avtora:
 http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Academy/5206/dream.htm
---------------------------------------------------------------

                      Tam, gde konchaetsya nebo,
                      Tam, gde plachet gitara v nochi,
                      YArkie yuzhnye zvezdy,
                      Strannikam svetyat v puti.
                                           Bravo.




     nachalsya  dovol'no  sumburno, vozmozhno potomu, chto dejstvie
vse eshche proishodilo v New Jorke. Posle bessonnoj nochi, Avtor  s
radost'yu  i  neterpeniem  sdala  test po molekulyarnoj biologii,
primeniv svoi sobstvennye zakony genetiki (i pravda, Mendel'  -
eto  uzhe tak staro!). Dalee sobytiya razvivalis' sootvetstvenno:
my toaster



(just  out  of  spite  and  mean character) decided to burn the
bagel which was the only breakfast/lunch/dinner for  that  day.
Then,  the  wonderful  aroma  of burnt bagel has been spreading
around the hall, until it reached one of my "lovely" neighbors,
who  decided to share this interesting fact with dorm's securi­
ty. After hearing the knock on my door, I  opened  the  window,
almost  threw  the  treacherous toaster out on the street (from
the fifth floor, that is), and sprayed as  much  parfume  as  I
could to cover up the accident (the room smelled like Poeme for
the next two  weeks.  no  comments).  "The  innocent  girl"-act
worked with security, so they never found out that I AM the bad
bad person who doesn't know how to  use  electrical  appliances
(technology, what can I do? I'm out of fashion), and then I was
able to grab my bags and run to the airport.
     Newark  airport  is  pretty  nice,  no  moi mysli zanimalo
chto-to drugoe - epopeya s pasportom prodolzhalas'.
     (Lord,  or whoever else is up there, I humbly thank you
for stupidity and ignorance of US immigration  authorities  who
let  me  out  and  then  let  me into this country with invalid
Ukrainian passport. Lord, grant those people  some  more  igno­
rance and kindness towards our poor immigrant souls. Amen.)
The plane was small, like really small - which was a bit alarm­
ing. Even though we were supposed to leave at 8:30 p.m., we ac­
tually left an hour later because the pilot was in the mood  to
practice  his  skills  -  like  K-turns, U-turns, and all other
turns - probably not considering that some of us actually want­
ed to get to Cancun.
     Well, after 4 more hours, we landed in the country of palm
trees, beautiful sea, large sombreros, and tequila (the stereo­
types  are  working alright, can't you tell?) Another hour - we
got a stamp, allowing our admission to the country  (the  immi­
gration  people  were  really surprised to see "Ukraine" in the
"citizenship" line, have they ever heard  of  my  motherland?),
pushed a button to prove that we aren't bringing anything ille­
gal (God, it's so ridiculous! The customs person tells you  "if
you swear that you don't have anything prohibited, push the red
button" - of course, you push the button, then the green  light
lights up - and you are free to enter Mexico. Circus.), got our
luggage - and finally got out into some fresh night  air.  God,
it  was  around 25 degrees Celcius (a nice change from cold and
grey New York!). After paying 18 bucks for a great pleasure  of
being stuffed in a little van with a bunch of other travellers,
we were off to discover Cancun.







     Yes,  I  admit, I am one of those people who work for liv­
ing, and I don't have a lot of extra money either (sponsors and
donations are always welcome) - so, obviously, I didn't stay in
Sheraton or Hyatt. Nope, it was much simpler  -  youth  hostel,
but  before  I will go on to description of our youth hostel to
scare you a bit, I'd rather think of our first glance at Cancun
in the darkness of the night.
     Actually,  Cancun  consists  of  two parts: hotel zone and
downtown. Hotel zone: lots of hotels (duh?), lots of  tourists,
lots  of  American college kids who form one body with a bottle
of beer in one hand, and tequila shot - in another  (and  I  am
not  judgmental,  not at all?!), and beaches, beaches, beaches.
Downtown: market (tipichno russkij bazar,  no  ob  etom  pozzhe),
more  authentic  hotels, some stores, restaurants, and the real
Mexican people (isn't it what you come to Mexico  for?).  Takaya
roskosh'  kak  Hotel  zone  byla  mne  ne  po karmanu, tak chto ya
lyubovalas' na eti kartinki "horoshei zhizni"  tol'ko  cherez  okno
mashiny. Po obeim storonam dorogi rosli... pal'my



(prostite,  Avtor  vse  eshche  v shoke - nu ne videl chelovek do
etogo zhivuyu pal'mu i vse tut!) Vot tam pal'my i shelestyat na
vetru...  ZHizn'...  Vozle otelei, oni sdelali zelenuyu podsvetku
vorkug derev'ev, tak chto noch'yu  edesh'  -  a  vokrug  prekrasnyi
takoi  svet,  pryam tebe "Volshebnik izumrudnogo goroda" (dlya dush
bolee prostyh - think "Kakoe vse zelenoe", that  vill  describe
the  picture better!). Oteli... Bol'shie, svetlie, v osnovnom, v
psevdo-maya stile - v vide ogromnyh piramid ili hramov (perhaps,
a  bit too flashy - but with this kind of weather and surround­
ings - it works).
     Pokatav  nas  po  vsemu  gorodu  i  izbavivshis'  ot  bolee
"bogatyh" passazhirov, voditel' nakonec-to privez nas  k  mestu
naznacheniya  -  youth hostel. Dlya neosvedomlennyh tovarishchei: youuth
hostel - studencheskaya gostinitsa,  chto  srazu  podrazumevaet  -
deshevo  i  serdito.  A  voobshche,  etot  youth  hostel  - nu tochno
sovetskij pionerskij lager': i obstanovka,  i  udobstva,  da  i
okruzhenie  tozhe.  Stoyal on na beregu Karibskogo morya, pod sen'yu
pal'm - i veter gulyal po koridoram. Edinstvennym  polozhitel'nym
kachestvom  byla  deshevaya  cena, more, i vending machine s Fantoi
(kstati, oni tam vse  eshche  p'yut  Fantu  -  klass,  sbylis'  moi
mechty!). Prosnuvshis' rano utrom, poshli my brodit' vdol' plyazha -
belyj belyj pesok.... golubaya voda... solnce...



i vse te zhe pal'my (Avtor nikak ne mozhet otoiti, a?)





     The  youth  hostel:  sovetskij pionerskij lager', ogromnie
komnaty so mnozhestvom krovatei (po-vidimomu, po  principy  "chem
bol'she,  tem  luchshe"),  postel'noe bel'e somnitel'noi svezhesti,
kolonny murav'ev, veselo begayushchih tuda-nazad  and  a  bunch  of
strangers  sharing this luxury with us. The front desk person -
Rodrigo-Miguel-Fernando (ili v  obratnom  poryadke)  was  always
nice  and  smiling,  although God knows what he was thinking of
two "American" girls who were trying to explain something in  a
mixture  of  English, Spanish and French. The staff of the "ho­
tel", consisting of two middle-aged guys who liked to stare  at
tourists, usually just hung out in the cool lobby watching car­
toons on TV.
     The  first two days we just walked along the shore, unable
to believe that it IS summer all around us. But our Spartan at­
titude  soon  expired, and we went Downtown to find ourselves a
"decent"  hotel.  Vdohnovlennie  mysl'yu,  chto  gde-to  tam,  za
gorizontom,  za oknom avtobusa, est' tot samij nebol'shoi uyutnij
otel', v kotorom nas davno uzhe  zhdut,  my  shvatili  nashi  veshchi,
otdali  klyuchi,  i  samoe  glavnoe vernuli ... hmm... postel'noe
bel'e  i  gordo  potashchilis'  po  zhare  v   storonu   avtobusnoi
ostanovki.  Gordost'-gordost'yu,  no  eshche  cherez  pyat'  minut my
slovili taxi i poehali v gorod.
     Kstati  o  taxi: Vo-pervyh, oni, vidya turistov, zalamyvayut
Bog znaet kakie  ceny,  rasshchityvaya  na  neznanie  rascenok  ili
bol'shoe  kolichestvo  deneg. And then, when two "American" girls
are walking on the street, the drivers probably think of us  as
of  two  poor  little  brainless females who just cannot walk a
couple of feet all on  their  own  (now,  that's  a  compli­
ment!)  and every two minutes you hear nice and suggestive:
"Senorita! Taxi!" S odnoi storony  eto  besit,  potomu  chto  ne
takie  uzhe  my neponyatlivye i glupye. No s drugoi storony takoe
vnimanie  bezuslovno  priyatno.  Gde  v  Nev  Yorke  vozle  tebya
ostanovitsya  taxi i tebe "myagko i nenavyazchivo" budut predlagat'
svoi uslugi? Tak chto nedelyu mozhno  bylo  sebya  chuvstvovat'  kak
Donald  Trump  vyhodyashchij  iz Plaza Hotel. Ponyatno, konechno, chto
vse v Cancune napravleno dlya udobstva i udovol'stviya turistov -
but  let's admit it: when people are constantly smiling to you,
offering you dinner at a restaurant (for  the  price  twice  as
high,  of course), or inviting you to night clubs - it's pleas­
ant, naturally. Tourism is the only way for the  town  to  make
some  money  - so, somebody's gotta pay that money. Well, sorry
to disappoint them, that "somebody" wasn't us.


     Our  first  night out, we got caught by a promise of "real
Mexican cuisine". Well, first, the restaurant was full of white
American  tourists , the dinner was  tiny
but, I guess, the high price was supposed to compensate for the
lack of food. And "only for two beautiful  senoritas",  we  got
two really bad margaritas. Well, Lord, thank you for that warn­
ing - we got smarter afterwards. The next evening  we  went  to
the  Mexican part of the town - narrow, dark streets, bars, men
drinking outside and passing  comments  (drinking,  huh?  is
this  some  kind  of  subconscious pull to our "native Russian"
culture, stereotypically thinking?) So, we stopped at  this
little  restaurant  -  "El  Quelito" on Avenida Uxmal. A little
place, with tables on the street, and  pictures  of  some  nice
vegetable  family:  Dad - Potato, in sombrero, of course, Mom -
tomato, etc. (po-vidimomu, posledovateli Chippolino) But
it's  not important. The bomb was the great food and Roger, the
one and only waiter. The food . . . well, it was the first time
we  had  authentic  Mexican food - and it was awesome! Now, you
just can go back to Taco Bell, no way. Well, once  again,  "the
two beautiful senoritas" got a free shot of tequila with Sprite
- was it really free or was Roger too hospitable and  trying
to  get  us  drunk?  Who  knows,  but that was rather interest­
ing.
     By  the  way, I've never been called "beautiful" that many
times in my entire life. Of course, nice attitude  sells,  and,
perhaps,  it's  just  part of the business - but God, it works!
After a couple of days we already believed that  we  are  truly
unique  and  beautiful (just like any other white girl vaca­
tioning in Cancun). Odnazhdy, za paru dnei  do  ot'ezda,  my
torgovalis'  za  kakie-to  suveniry  na odnom iz mnogochislennyh
bazarchikov. Torgovets, zhalobno glyadya nam v glaza, naznachal svoyu
ceny,  my,  tak  zhe zhalobno glyadya emu v galza i placha o tyazheloi
zhizni bednyh russkih studentov, govorili v dva raza men'she.  On
pereshel  k  celovaniyu  ruk  (v  golove yarko zamigala nadpis'
"Sexual   harrassment"   -   vot   vam   plody    amerikanskogo
vospitaniya!),  vzyvaya  k nashei sovesti i poglyadyvaya na nashi
karmany; my zhe, vydav sebya za studentov iz  Rossii,  plakali  o
tom  kak tyazhelo my rabotali, chtoby popast' v Cancun, dramatichno
potryasaya pered ego  litsom  temi  samymi  rukami,  kotorymi  my
rabotali.  My  soshlis' poseredine, plyus urok russkogo yazyka. Na
proshchanie   on   gromko   krichal   nam    vsled:    "Dasvedaniya,
krrrrasavitsy!" Vobshchem, serdce taet, chto i govorit'!
     Mysli,  odnako,  bluzhdayut  -  let's  go back to our friend
Roger. Just like any other waiter in Cancun, he invited  us  to
have  dinner  at  his  restaurant. The first time we had dinner
there - it was just a small talk: US  blah  blah  blah,  Cancun
blah  blah  blah,  Americans blah blah blah etc. Roger lived in
the US for awhile, so we had a lot to  talk  about.  Well,  the
second time we went there for dinner, the topic of conversation
gradually switched to young people, relationships, then smooth­
ly to drugs, and then, to criminal justice system in the United
States. It appeared that our good friend Roger was a crack  ad­
dict  who  spent  three  years  in  Florida  prison for murder.
Whether he really killed that person,  we  don't  know.  Odnako
poslushav  chasa  tri  ego  rasskazy i posle ozhivlennogo debata o
smertnoi kazni, my poshchitali chto zhit' vse zhe hochetsya. Nu a krome
shutok,  my dovol'no po druzheski rasproshchalis', pozhelav emu udachi
i drug free life.. I guess, that was the person that  we  won't
forget easily after coming back to New York.
     Our  life  was  absolutely beauitful. Why? Because we were
doing NOTHING! Usually, we got up early in the morning, went to
the  supermarket  to get rolls, fruit and yogurt and took a bus
to the beach.  Rolls - the bread there actually HAS TASTE! (un­
like  its  American  version) and it's really cheap. Even if we
were really poor, we could have survived only on bread.
     Fruit - well, there goes the story: the tap water in Mexi­
co is bad, which means you have to wash fruit with spring water
(and  it can appear rather costly after a while). So, the whole
time we had only bananas and kiwi. And I'd say  it  was  pretty
good.
     Yogurt  -  egurt  kak  egurt,  no kazhdij den'??! Eshche dolgo
posle vozvrashcheniya v Nev York my ne mogli na nego smotret'.
     S  utra  na  plyazhe  bylo spokoino i prekrasno. Tol'ko my i
more. I eshche letayut nad vodoi pelikany v poiskah ryby,  a  potom
pod  pryamym  uglom  padayut  v volny i hvatayut dobychu. K poludnyu
prosypayutsya zagulyavshie turisty i nachinayut  progulivat'sya  vdol'
plyazha  s  neizmennoi  butylkoi  piva  v ruke. S intervalom v 15
minut  prohodyat  torgovcy  i  prelagayut   odeyala,   zolotye   i
serebryanye ukrasheniya i t.d.
     -  Senorita,  buy  this  nice  little necklace for your
boyfriend!
     (Well, that "little necklace" somehow really reminded a
thick collar - my boyfriend is not a dog! I dnem  i  noch'yu  kot
uchenij vse hodit po cepi krugom? Po-vidimomu...)
     Kak  i na plyazhe, tak i na malen'kom bazarchike v dovntovn'e
predlagayut prakticheski odni i te zhe  suveniry  za  basnoslovnye
ceny  (po  nashemu  mneniyu)  ili  "almost for free!" kak uveryayut
torgovcy.
     -  Senorita, buy a bracelet! (i tak s nebol'shimi
intervalami eshche 5 minut, ne ponimaya otveta "No,  gracias")V
konce koncov terpenie istoshchaetsya:
     - I don't have any money!!!!
     -  What?!!  Senorita,  you  spent  all  of OUR mon­
ey?!  (s  nepoddel'nym  udivleniem  v   golose.   Den'gi
turistov  prinadlezhat  torgovcam i gorodu. To est' kak ih mozhno
bylo rastratit',  ne  soglasovav  s  nim?)
     Ili drugoi primer biznesmena:
     -  Senorita,  give me just 5 Mexican minutes!!
     You  thought  that one minute anywhere in the world has 60
seconds? You were wrong! In Mexico time  goes  on  slowly,
nobody's  rushing  to  make  money - this is not America. "Five
Mexican minutes" could last for a couple of hours.
     Eto  nam  srazu  napomnilo  o nashei istoricheskoi rodine. V
punkte obmena valyuty turist mozhet zhdat' hot' pol chasa, bud'  ty
belij,  bogatij  i  t.d.  -  a poka eta zhenshchina ne pogovorit po
telefonu,  valyuty   vy   ne   uvidite.   Ili:   pri   vhode   v
arheologicheskuyu  zonu  Tulum  sidel  politseiskij,  kotorij, po
idee, dolzhen byl sledit' za poryadkom, a na  samom  dele  prosto
sidel   i   spal   v   teni.  Vot  vam  i  "nasha  militsiya  nas
berezhet."
     Odnazhdy  vecherom  my  ne  poshli v club, a prosto gulyali po
gorodu.  I  nabreli  na  gorodskoi  park.  Po-moemu,  eto   byl
voskresnij  vecher.  Po  parku  gulyali pary i roditeli s det'mi.
Muzhchiny v belyh rubashkah  i  bryukah,  naryadno  odetye  zhenshchiny,
malen'kie  zhutko krasivye detki. Skazhete, prosto obychnaya mirnaya
kartina? Da net,  ne  takaya  uzh  obychnaya.  Za  gody  v  Amerike
potihon'ku  otvykaesh'  ot  lyudei na ulitsah (I'm not talking
about  New  York  City  here),  ot  roditelei  gulyayushchih   s
det'mi...  Raznye  strany,  raznaya mental'nost'.. (Po-moemu,
Avtor  opyat'  pod  vliyaniem  vospominanij  o  proshlom...A  nado
li??)
     Mnogochislennye  agenty  predlagali  nam povsyudu: na plyazhe,
vozle otelei, na ulitsah Kankuna svoi tury.  Odnako  "senerity"
reshili  proyavit'  svoyu samostoyatel'nost', osoznav, chto deneg na
ekskursiyu s gidom nam vse ravno ne hvatit. My nashli avtovokzal,
vybrali  samuyu  deshevuyu cenu, i, s gorem popolam ob'yasnivshis' s
kassirshei, kupili bilety v Tulum.
     Tulum  -  eto  po  idee  arheologicheskaya  zona,  gde mozhno
uvidet' vse, chto ostalos' ot goroda maya.  Proidya  pol  chasa  po
pyl'noi doroge, probivshis' cherez stroi nazoilivyh torgovcev, my
nakonets-to pereshli cherez porog i popali v mir  maya  (El  Mundo
Maya).  Srazu  zabyvaesh'  o  dolgom  puteshestvii v razboltannom
avtobuse, o zhare i pyli, o tolpah  turistov,  kotorye  poslushno
hodyat za gidom, razgovarivaya o pogode v Minnesote i o yede v ih
otele.
     Ty  vidish'  kamni,  razvaliny  hrama,  drevnie stupeni, ty
chuvstvuesh' gody istorii vokrug tebya. Mozhno  zabrat'sya  na  utes
ryadom  s  hramom, i ottuda otrkyavaetsya absolutno potryasayushchaya po
svoei  krasote  kartina:  ogromnoe   beskrainee   neperedavaemo
sine-goluboe  more,  neveroyatno  prekrasnogo ottenka, takogo, o
kotorom dolgo mechtaesh', a potom,  uvidev,  ne  hochesh'  uhodit'.
Vnizu  byl  belyi  plyazh  i sil'nye volny. Oni bilis' ob utes, i
bryzgi leteli v litsa lyudei. Kogda na nebe prohodila  tucha,  po
vode  dvigalas'  chernaya ten', i kazalos', chto kakoe-to chudovishche
seichas vstanet iz vody i  vmeste  s  nim  ozhivut  zhiteli  etogo
drevnego goroda. (See what vivid imagination and a couple of
horror movies can do to your psyche?)


     Byl  absolutno  solnechnij,  zharkij,  lenivyi  den'. Dolina
kazalas' usnuvshei: siesta - a vecherom, vozmozhno  vse  menyalos'?
Vozle  storozhevoi bashni sidela ogromnaya yashcheritsa. Kak zastyvshee
izvayanie ona kazalas' chast'yu etih kamnei i ne obrashchala vnimanie
na    ozhivlennyh   turistov,   kotorye   ne   perestavali   yee
fotografirovat'.
     Estestvenno,   v   Tulume   u  nas  zakonchilas'  plenka  v
fotoapparate,  tak  chto  ostalis'  lish'  vospominaniya  i   para
otkrytok.  ZHal',  no  my tak i ne uvideli piramidy hramov maya v
gorodke CHichen Itza. Udachi tem, kto tam eshche pobyvaet.
     Obratno  v  Kankun  my  vozvrashchalis'  v  avtobuse.  Voobshche
avtobusy tam - yavlenie neobyknovennoe. U gorodskih avtobusov  v
marshrutah  ne  zaputaesh'sya - ih tam ne tak uzh i mnogo - i bilet
stoit raza v tri deshevle, chem v Nev Yorke  (a  voobshche  to  cena
zavisit  ot  kursa  dollara,  poka  my tam byli - cena menyalas'
dvazhdy).  Vprochem,   voditeli   otnosyacya   k   lyudyam   dovol'no
blagozhelatel'no  i  ostanovyacya  vozle tebya na ulitse po signalu
podnyatnoi  ruki.  Samoe  interesnoe   nachinaetsya,   kogda   vam
neobhodimo  vyiti  tam, gde net oficial'noi ostanovki. Na kriki
"Stop!  Stop!"  voditel'  inogda  ne  reagiruet,  tak  chto   my
vyskakivali  gde ugodno, lish' by ne poteryat'sya. CHerez paru dnei
my nauchilis' delat' eto kak "nastoyashchie" meksikancy. Posle etogo
my  uzhe  gromko  krichali  "Vayan!"  -  dveri  srazu otkryvalis',
avtobus dazhe inogda ostanavlivalsya, i vse shlo svoim cheredom.  V
osnovnom,   gorodskie   avtobusy   v   Kankune   byli  dovol'no
dopotopnie, no nas dobil sovsem uzh unikal'nij  ekzemplyar:  etot
avtobus  byl  uzh  sovsem  kakih-to mikroskopicheskih razmerov, i
samoe interesnoe, chto siden'ya tam yavno  ne  byli  rasshchitany  na
lyudei  vyshe  srednego rosta - nogi mezhdu siden'yami pochemu-to ne
pomeshchalis',  posle   etogo   ochen'   hotelos'   byt'   vremenno
egom.
     Vecherom, uzhe ustalye ot nichegonedelaniya, my vozvrashchalis' v
nash otel' (Kak prekrasno chto my ego nashli!) V tot  den',
kogda  my  tak  reshitel'no  pokinuli  youth hostel (spasibo emu
bol'shoe za nachal'noe gostepriimstvo, no vsego ponemnozhku!),  my
dolgo  kolesili  po  gorodu  v  taksi,  no  vse oteli libo byli
zanyaty, libo byli  prosto  nam  ne  po  karmanu.  Nakonets,  my
osoznali,  chto  voditelyu pridecya platit' slishkom mnogo, a tolku
net. I tak my okazalis' v  zharkij  polden'  na  glavnoi  ulitse
Kankuna   so   vsemi   veshchami   i   bez   opredelennogo   mesta
zhitel'stva.
     Well, Thank God, or thank my friend Bella - but in an hour
we got a good room in a pretty nice  hotel  in  the  center  of
downtown  Cancun. For those who know (does this sound impor­
tant, or what?), we stayed in Hotel Colonial  (conveniently
located across from Pizza Hut, vending machine with Fanta and a
bunch of restaurants where "amigos"  in  large  sombreros  sand
some serenades and tear-jerking songs for American tourists ev­
ery evening. - A week ago I  think  I  saw  the  same  "amigos"
singing  in  New  York  subway. They looked a bit more worn and
tired, and their sombreros lost all color  and  golden  decora­
tions. Or maybe it was only my imagination....)


     We  even had a fridge with a bottle of wine left by previ­
ous tenants and a TV. It had only 4-5  channels  (not  that  we
could  understand anything!), but with our luck they only thing
on TV for that couple of days was some  kind  of  outdated  Van
Damme marathon. Go figure. The rest was either American sitcoms
and shows or old movies, or one of the many Mexican soap operas
(pamyati "Dikoi Rozy" i "Prosto Marii" posvyashchaetsya...)
     One  of the most beautiful things about Cancun was La Isla
Mujeres (ostrov zhenschin). Of  course,  there  were  organized
trips  there,  with  unlimited drinks and food on the boat, and
other perks. My, proletarii, prosto poehali v port, i ottuda na
katere  s  turistami i mestnymi rabochimi napravilis' k ostrovu.
Po nachalu: "Ah,  kak  krasivo!  Posmotri  na  vodu,  kakaya  ona
zelenaya!" No uzhe cherez 10 minut, glyadya na nashi litsa mozhno bylo
skazat': "Kakoe odnako  zelenoe!"  Vse  srabotalo  po  principy
"ZHadnost'   fraera  sgubila"  (hm..  proshu  proshchenia  za  takoe
vyrazhenie!), no istina  zaklyuchaetsya  v  tom,  chto  chem  deshevle
bilet,  tem  dol'she  put'  k  "zemle neobetovannoi." Na ostrove
turistam srazu  predlagayut  massu  razvlechenij,  no  my  prosto
obognuli  port  i  popali  na  samyi  krasivyi  plyazh, kotoryi ya
kogda-libo videla v svoei zhizni. (If I were you, I  wouldn't
count  on life experience of a person, who saw only Odessa, New
Jersey, and New York beaches. Not an expert.) Pesok tam byl
belyi-belyi,    pal'my    i   voda...   absolutno   prozrachnaya,
neobyknovenno sine-zelenogo  cveta,  i  nad  vsem  etim  chistoe
goluboe nebo. (uvidev eto ponimaesh', chto rai taki suchestvuet, i
televizionnie reklamy ne vsegda vrut).
     Skazka. Utopiya. Idilliya. Call it whatever you want, but it
was absolutely beautiful. We spent there two days  -  out  last
days  in Cancun. And now when we think of the Caribbean, we al­
ways remeber the beauty of Island Mujeres.


       At  the  end  of the second day on the island, there was
this terrible rain. We, and a bunch of people were standing  on
the  pier,  waiting for the ferry to return to Cancun. It came,
played a little bit of music, and after a brief announcement to
the  public  that it's broken, the ferry turned around and went
to Cancun. Empty. The crowd of waiting people remained standing
on  the  pier under the cold rain. Then there came another tour
boat for the "chosen" ones, who where "to enjoy  the  sightsee­
ing"  in this "beautiful" weather. So, that was a rather ironic
picture:  tolpa  promokshih  lyudei,  holodnij   grad,   massovoe
nastroenie na temu "Vragu ne sdaecya nash gordyi "Varyag"..",ryadom
etot samij kater, i vdrug s nego kak grom sredi yasnogo (ili  ne
sovsem  yasnogo)  neba:  Spice  Girls - "Yo, I'll tell eu vhat I
vant, vhat I really really vant.." Posle  u  nekotoryh  nachalsya
istericheskij smeh. Eto byl poslednij vecher v Kankune.
     Na  sledushchee utro my pokinuli Meksiku. Zakonchilos' leto, i
my vernulis' v holod i  dojd'  v  Nevark'e.  V  aeroportu  lyudi
dovol'no zavistlivo glyadeli na nash svezhij zagar, opyat' nikto ne
obratil vnimanie na moi  podozritel'nie  dokumenty.  I  tak  my
vernulis'  v  "real'nost".  Na  sledushchee utro v Nev Yorke vypal
sneg, i mozhno bylo s uverennost'yu skazat': "Net, eto vam bol'she
ne Cancun." Eshche gde-to nedelyu my ne mogli "vernut'sya v zhizn'" i
zhili prekrasnym proshlym, no vskore zhizn' vzyala svoe, i ostalis'
lish'  neskol'ko  fotografij,  yarkoe  odeyalo,  muzyka,  duhi,  i
vospominaniya...

---------------------------------------------------------------
     This  represents  only the Author's opinion of Cancun, and
is not meant to be offensive towards anybody.

Last-modified: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:21:14 GMT

Ocenite etot tekst: