oks (1938) Stejk-porterhaus na doske (Planked Porterhouse Steak) Rubec po-kreol'ski (Creole Tripe) Missurijskij okorok iz grafstva Bun (Boone County Missouri Ham) Kurica v yaichnom souse (Chicken in Curdled Egg Sauce) Opossum po-tenneesijski (Tennessee Opossum) Omar N'yuburg (Lobster Newburg) Filadel'fijskij cherepahovyj sup (Philadelphia Snapper Soup) Novoorleanskij bujabes (Bouillabaisse of New Orleans) Ustrichnyj pirog Niro Vul'fa (Oyster Pie Nero Wolfe) Obzharennaya dzhordzhijskaya vetchina (Broiled Georgia Ham) Muss Pokahonta iz ikry sheda (Shad-Roe Mousse Pocahontas) Ustricy, zapechennye v rakovinah (Oysters Baked in the Shell) CHerepaha po-merilendski (Terrapin Maryland) "Bitoe" pechen'e (Beaten Biscuits) ZHarenaya molodaya indejka (Pan-Broiled Young Turkey) Risovye krokety (Rice Croquettes) Limskaya fasol' v slivkah (Lima Beans in Cream) Avokado Todhanter (Avocado Todhunter) Salli-lann (Sally Lunn) Ananasovyj sherbet (Pineapple Sherbet) Biskvit (Sponge Cake) Salatnaya zapravka "Rucheek na nyry"(Meadowbrook Salad Dressing) Konsome (Consomme) Golec s korichnevym maslyanym sousom i kapersami (Brook Trout with Brown Butter and Capers) Kneli po-domashnemu (Quenelles Bonne Femme) ZHarenaya utka a-lya mister Richarde (Roast Duck Mr. Richards) Salat Rossi (Rossi Salad) Ragu iz zajca (Civet de Lapin) Pirozhki Valenko (Piroshki Vallenko) Artishoki drigant (Artichokes Drigante) YAjca "verhom" (Oeufs au Cheval) Sous "Vesna" (Sauce Printemps) Kolbaski minyui (Saucisse Minuit) CHEREZ MOJ TRUP.Over My Dead Body (1940) Melko narezannyj i podrumyanennyj kartofel' (Hashed Brown Potatoes) Mafiny s chernikoj (Blueberry Muffins). Kukuruznye mafiny (Corn Muffins) Pirog iz zelenyh pomidorov (Green-Tomato Pie) ZAVESHCHANIE.Where There's a Will (1940) Alligator v pikantnom souse (Alligator Sauce Picante) S PRISKORBIEM IZVESHCHAEM.Cordially Invited to Meet Death (1942) Hesh iz soloniny (Corned-Beef Hash) Trebuha dlya hesha iz soloniny (Chitlins for Corned-Beef Hash) Fal'shivaya cherepaha (Mock Terrapin) Bul'on dlya fal'shivoj cherepahi (Stock for Mock Terrapin) Spunbred (Spoon Bread) Dzhulep (Julep) LOVUSHKA. Booby Trap (1944) Lyagushach'i lapki po receptu Frica (Fritz's Frogs' Legs) UMOLKNUVSHIJ ORATOR.The Silent Speaker (1946). Kukuruznye blinchiki (Com Cakes) Parnaya svinaya vyrezka v suharyah (Breaded Fresh Pork Tenderloin) Tomatno-syrnyj sous (Tomato and Cheese Sauce) I BYTX PODLECOM.And Be a Villain (1948) ZHarenye krevetki (Fried Shrimp) Kotletki iz mollyuskov zaliva Kejp-Kod (Cape Cod Clam Cakes) Smetannyj sous (Sour Sauce) Vitello tonnato (Vitello Tonnato) Sendvich s rublenoj krol'chatinoj (Minced-Rabbit-Meat Sandwiches) Sendvich s soloninoj (Corned-Beef Sandwich) Sendvich s dzhordzhijskoj "derevenskoj" vetchinoj (Georgia-Country-Ham Sandwich) Parnaya svinaya vyrezka v kastryule (Fresh Pork Tenderloin in Casserole). TREBUETSYA MUZHCHINA.Help Wanted, Male (1949) Dzhem iz zelenyh pomidorov (Green-Tomato Jam) ZHarennye na grile tonkie lomtiki svinoj vyrezki (Broiled Pork-Loin Wafers) Salatnaya zapravka Niro Vul'fa (Nero Wolfe's Salad Dressing) Testo dlya pirogov (Pie Crust) Pirog s chernikoj (Blueberry Pie) VMESTO ULIKI. Instead of Evidence (1949) Telyach'ya otbivnaya (Veal Cutlet) Kastel'nodarskoe kassule (Cassoulet Castelnaudary) VTOROE PRIZNANIE.The Second Confession (1949) Bifshteks (Beefsteak) OZHIVSHIJ POKOJNIK. Man Alive (1950) Kurinaya pechenka (Chicken Livers) Risovye olad'i (Rice Cakes) V LUCHSHIH SEMEJSTVAH.In The Best Families (1950) Mindal'noe parfe (Almond Parfait) Utka Mondor (Duck Mondor) PROCHITAVSHEMU -- SMERTX.Murder by The Book (1951) Svinye rebryshki v osobom souse (Spareribs in Special Sauce) IGRA V BARY. Prisoner's Base (1952) Bakalao (Bacalhau) Puding s greckimi orehami (Walnut pudding) Pochki po-gorski (Kidneys Mountain Style) Klecki v karameli (Carameled Dumplings) ZOLOTYE PAUKI. The Golden Spiders (1953) Kruassany dlya voskresnogo zavtraka (Sunday Morning Crescents) Nachinka iz svezhih fig i chereshni (Fig and Cherry Tart Filling) Omlet s anchousami (Anchovy Omelet) Findonskaya piksha (Finnan Haddie) Kotlety iz yagnyatiny (Lamb Cutlets) Skvorcy (Starlings) Polenta (Polenta) Bliny so svininoj po-datski (Danish Pork Pancakes) BEZ ULIK. The Zero Clue (1954) Pesto (IL Pesto) CHERNAYA GORA. The Black Mountain (1954) Tushenaya "dikaya" indejka (Braised Wild Turkey) Sous iz sel'dereya (Celery Sauce) Ananasy s tvorogom (Pineapple and Cheese) Syuprem iz pticy v pergamente (Supremes de Volaille en Papillote) Kuropatka v kastryul'ke (Perdrix en Casserole) Turnedo Bogarne (Tournedo Beauharnais) Tal'yarini (Tagliarini) Sous dlya tal'yarini (Sauce for Tagliarini) HE POZDNEE POLUNOCHI. Before Midnight (1955) Tosty pod molochnym sousom (Milk Toast) Bul'on (Bouillon) KOGDA CHELOVEK UBIVAET.When a Man Murders (1956) Golubi s kolbaskami i kvashenoj kapustoj (Squabs with Sausage and Sauerkraut) Kolbaski s desyat'yu travami (Sausage with Ten Herbs) Pechenochnyj pashtet Frica (Fritz's Liver Pate) VSEH, KROME PSA, V POLICIYU.Die Like a Dog (1956) Golubi s venecianskim sousom (Squabs with sauce Venitienne) Venecianskij sous (Sauce Venitienne) VSE NACHALOSX S OMAHI.Might as Well Be Dead (1956) Muss iz vetchiny i zobnoj zhelezy (Ham and Sweetbread Mousse) Omlet s shampin'onami i sel'dereem (Mushroom and Celery Omelet) Pochki v teste (Kidney Pie) |ndivij s martinikskoj zapravkoj (Endive with Martinique Dressing) Svinoe file, tushennoe v vine s pryanostyami (Pork Fillets Braised in Spiced Wine) Kurinaya pechenka s gribami (Chicken Livers with Mushroom) Kurinoe frikase s kleckami (Chicken Fricassee with Dumplings) Klecki (Dumplings) OKNO K SMERTI. A Window for Death (1957) Blinchiki (Griddle Cakes) Brazil'skij salat iz omarov (Brazilian Lobster Salad) Majonez (Mayonnaise) Muss iz lososya (Salmon Mousse) Letnij salat (Summer salad) IMMUNITET K UBIJSTVU.Immune to Murder (1957) "Forel'noe soglashenie" Niro Vul'fa (Nero Wolfe Trout Deal) YAjca bulanzher (Eggs Boulangere) ESLI BY SMERTX SPALA.If Death Ever Slept (1957) Zalivnoe govyazh'e file (Filet of Beef in Aspic) Ikra sheda s kreol'skim sousom (Shad Roe with Creole. Sauce) Treugol'nye tosty, obzharennye v anchousnom masle (Bread Triangled Fried in Anchovy Butter) "Ezhovyj" omlet (Hedgehog Omelet) Avokado (Avocado) ROZHDESTVENSKAYA VECHERINKA. Christmas Party (1958) Pechenye grushi (Baked Pears) PASHALXNYJ PARAD. Easter Parade (1958) Pechen'e na pahte (Buttermilk Biscuits) PRAZDNICHNYJ PIKNIK.Fourth of July Picnic (1958) Cyplyata s tryufelyami, pripushchennye v bul'one (Poached and Truffled Broilers) Brokkoli (Broccoli) Farshirovannyj travami kartofel' (Herbed Stuffed Potatoes) BOKAL SHAMPANSKOGO.Champagne for One (1958) Svezhie figi so slivkami (Fresh Figs with Cream) Telyach'i ruletiki v kastryul'ke (Veal Birds in Casserole) Anchousnoe maslo (Anchovy Butter) Melko narezannye mollyuski v yajce (Clams Hashed with Eggs) SOCHINYAJTE SAMI. Plot It Yourself (1959) Omlet s shampin'onami i mindalem (Mushroom and Almond Omelet) Abrikosovyj omlet (Apricot Omelet) Abrikosovyj omlet s bekonom (Bacon and Apricot Omelet) Zemlyanichnyj omlet (Strawberry Omelet) Tushenye utyata, farshirovannye krabovym myasom (Braised Ducklings Stuffed with Crabmeat) Golubi, vyderzhannye v slivkah (Squabs Marinated in Cream) Slivochnyj sous s maderoj (Madeira Cream Sauce) Rulet iz yagnyatiny (Lamb Loaf) SLISHKOM MNOGO KLIENTOV.Too Many Clients (1960) YAjca, svarennye na malom ogne (Coddled Eggs) Mozgovye kneli (Marrow Dumplings) Sup iz kashtanov (Chestnut Soup) Sendvich s krevetkami i ogurcom (Cucumber and Shrimp Sandwich) Domashnyaya bulochka dlya sendvichej (Hard Roll, Homemade) YAbloki, zapechennye v belom vine (Apples Baked in White Wine) OTRAVA VHODIT V MENYU.Poison a La Carte (1960) Bliny so smetanoj (Blinis with Sour Cream) Sup iz zelenoj cherepahi (Green-Turtle Soup) Kambala, pripushchennaya v belom vine (Flounder Poached in White Wine) Sous iz midij i gribov (Mussel and Mushroom Sauce) ZHarenyj fazan (Roast Pheasant) Molochnyj porosenok (Suckling Pig) Salat Frica s zapravkoj "d'yavol'skij dozhd'" (Salad with Devil's Rain Dressing) Krokety iz kashtanov (Chestnut Croquettes) Syr (Cheese) IZBAVLENIE METODOM No 3.Method Three for Murder (1960) Svinina, tushennaya v pive (Pork Stewed in Beer) OKONCHATELXNOE RESHENIE.The Final Deduction (1961) ZHarennye na grile pochki yagnenka (Grilled Lamb Kidneys) Ikra sheda s "tonkimi travami" (Shad Roe aux Fines Herbes) Farshirovannye rakoviny mollyuskov (Stuffed Clams) Utenok, zharennyj v sidre pod ispanskim sousom (Duckling Roasted in Cider with Spanish Sauce) GAMBIT. Gambit (1961) Krem iz papaji (Papaya Custard) SMERTX DEMONA. Death of a Demon (1962) Zapechennye morskie grebeshki (Baked Scallops) OHOTA ZA MATERXYU. The Mother Hunt (1963) Skreppl (Scrapple) Zobnaya zheleza pod sousom beshamel' (Sweetbreads in Bechamel Sauce) Salat iz svekly i vodyanogo kressa (Beet and Watercress Salad) Ikra sheda v gorshochke (Shad Roe in Casserole) Utenok s flamandskim sousom iz olivok (Duckling in Flemish Olive Sauce) Flamandskij sous iz olivok (Flemish Olive Sauce) Zemlyanika Romanov (Strawberries Romanoff) Omar po-kardinal'ski (Lobster Cardinal) Hleb Frica (Fritz's Bread) YAjca pod sousom ber-nuar (Eggs au beurre noir) YAichnica-boltun'ya (Scrambled Eggs) Kopchenaya osetrina po-moskovski (Sturgeon Fume a la Moscovite) UBEJ SEJCHAS -- ZAPLATISHX POTOM.Kill Now -- Pay Later (1964) Kreol'skie frittery s syrnym sousom (Creole Fritters with Cheese Sauce) Syrnyj sous (Cheese Sauce) Zapechennye yajca (Shirred Eggs) Myasnoj glyas (Glace de Viande) ZHarenye perepela Veroniki (Roast Quail Veronique) BANALXNOE UBIJSTVO.Murder Is Corny (1964) Kukuruznye olad'i (Corn Fritters) Farshirovannye yagnyatinoj baklazhany (Lamb-Stuffed Eggplant) Krevetki po-bordoski (Shrimp Bordelaise) Utka bez kostej s ruanskim sousom (Boned Duck with Sauce Rouennaise) Ruanskij sous (Sauce Rouennaise) KROVX SKAZHET.Blood Will Tell (1964). Omar v souse iz belogo vina (Lobsters with White-Wine Sauce).. Madrilen so svekol'nym sokom (Madrilene with Beet Juice) Puding s limonom i heresom pod sousom iz korichnevogo sahara (Lemon-Sherry Pudding with Brown-Sugar Sauce) Sous iz korichnevogo sahara (Brown-Sugar Sauce) PRAVO UMERETX. A Right to Die (1964) Dikaya utka pod sousom Vatel' (Wild Duck in Vatel Sauce) Sous Vatel' (Vatel Sauce) Midii v belom vine (Mussels in White Wine) Sufle iz fig (Fig Souffle) Omlet s shampin'onami i vodyanym kressom (Mushroom and Watercress Omelet) ZHarenyj shed v shchavelevom souse (Broiled Shad with Sorrel Sauce) ZVONOK V DVERX. The Doorbell Rang (1965) Utka karri (Curried Duck) Otbivnye kotlety iz oleniny (Venison Loin Chops) Jorkshirskie grenki (Yorkshire Buck) Zapechennyj lufar' (Baked Bluefish) Govyadina, tushennaya v krasnom vine (Beef Braised in Red Wine) Kabachok so smetanoj i ukropom (Squash with Sour Cream and Dill) Avokado s vodyanym kressom i chernym greckim orehom (Avocado with Watercress and Black-Walnut Kernel) Ulitki po-burgundski (Escargots Bourguignone) SHCHavelevyj sup (Germiny a 1'Oseille) Golubi po-moskovski (Squabs a la Moscovite) SHampin'ony po-pol'ski (Mushrooms Polonaise) SMERTX NALOZHNICY. Death of a Doxy (1966) Anchousy v klyare (Anchovy Fritters) Kuropatka v kastryul'ke (Partridge in Casserole) Ogurechnyj muss (Cucumber Mousse) Tvorog so slivkami po-kreol'ski (Creole Curds and Cream) Lukovyj sup (Onion Soup) Kentukkskoe bergu (Kentucky Burgoo) Tykvennyj pirog (Pumpkin Pie) Zel'c (Headcheese) Studen' iz svinoj golovy (Fromage de Tete de Pore) Kaplun po-suvorovski (Capon Souvaroff) Korichnevyj sous (Brown Sauce). YAjca-pashot po-burgundski (Poached Eggs Burgundian) Brioshi (Brioches) Vinogradno-tim'yanovoe zhele (Grape-Thyme Jelly) Pryanaya vishnya v brendi (Spiced Brandied Cherries) Bushe Neptun (Bouchees Neptune) Kashtanovyj krem (Chestnut Whip) Genuezskij krem (Creme Genoise) Zobnaya zheleza (Sweetbreads) OHOTA ZA OTCOM. The Father Hunt (1968) SHish-kebab (Shish Kebab) Malina pod kremom iz heresa (Raspberries in Sherry Cream). CHerepahovyj stejk (Turtle Steaks) Govyazh'i ruletiki s karri (Curried Beef Rolls).. Salat iz sel'dereya i dyni-kantalupy (Celery and Cantaloupe Salad) Grant iz cherniki (Blueberry Grunt) Arbuz (Watermelon).. Zobnaya zheleza s mindalem (Sweetbread Amandine). Puding iz molochnoj kukuruzy (Green-Corn Pudding). Morkov' po-flamandski (Carrots Flamandes). SMERTX HLYSHCHA. Death of a Dude (1969). Hunkev Bejyandi (Hunkiev Beyandy) Pyure iz baklazhanov (Eggplant Puree) Seryj teterev (Blue Grouse) ZAKLYUCHENIE SLOVARX KULINARNYH TERMINOV. ALFAVITNYJ UKAZATELX BLYUD Il'ya Lazerson, Sergej Sinel'nikov, Tat'yana Solomonik ZA STOLOM S NIRO VULXFOM, ILI SEKRETY KUHNI VELIKOGO SYSHCHIKA Kulinarnyj detektiv Otvetstvennyj za Vypusk M S.Zimina Komp'yuternaya verstka. T. K. Baryshnikova Hudozhnik N. Borisova Izd. lic. LR No 065372 ot 22.08.97 g. Podpisano v pechat' s gotovyh diapozitivov 24.12.2002 Format 84h1081/32. Bumaga gazetnaya. Garnitura "Tajme" Pechat' ofsetnaya. Usl. pech. l. 30,24. Pech. l. 18,0 Dop. tirazh 7 000 ekz. Zakaz No 323 Izd. lic. LR No 066015 ot 22.07.98 g. OOO "MiM-Ded'ta" 198013, Sankt-Peterburg, ul. Mozhajskaya, d. 18, of. 2 E-MAIL: MIMDEL@COMSET. NET ZAO "Izdatel'stvo "Centrpoligraf" 111024, Moskva, 1-ya ul. |ntuziastov, 15 E-MAIL: CNPOL@DOL. RU Otpechatano s gotovyh diapozitivov vo FGUP IPK "Ul'yanovskij Dom pechati" 432980, g. Ul'yanovsk, ul. Goncharova, 14 Kortlend (Cortland) -- sort krasnyh sochnyh kislo-sladkih yablok, osobenno populyarnyh na severo-vostoke i zapade SSHA. |ti yabloki horosho hranyatsya i podhodyat prakticheski dlya lyubyh kulinarnyh celej. Boldvin (Baldwin) -- sort krasnyh yablok s myagkim kislo-sladkim vkusom, kotorye prekrasno podhodyat dlya lyubyh kulinarnyh celej i horosho hranyatsya. |ti yabloki vpervye byli vyvedeny v 1777 godu massachusstskim polkovnikom Laomo Boldvinom (1754-1807), kotoryj i dal im svoe imya. S 1850 goda sort Boldvin stal shiroko kul'tivirovat'sya v shtate N'yu-Jork. Gravenshtejn (Gravenstein) -- amerikanskij sort zheltyh yablok, kotorye podhodyat prakticheski dlya lyubyh kulinarnyh nuzhd. Naprimer, izvestnoe yablochnoe pyure applesauce delayut imenno iz etih yablok. Nekotorye specialisty schitayut rodinoj etogo sorta Germaniyu, chto chuvstvuetsya uzhe v samom nazvanii. Sumah yadonosnyj -- vid sumaha (vechnozelenogo rasteniya semejstva anakardlievyh) s yadovitym sokom. V nashih magazinah segodnya mozhno kupit' uzhe natertyj i rasfasovannyj parmezanskij syr, no on ne idet ni v kakoe sravnenie so svezhenatertym. SHproty (ot nemeckogo Sprotten -- salaka) -- vid konservov iz baltijskoj salaki. Rybu slabo solyat, koptyat, a zatem zakatyvayut v banki, kotorye do prodazhi eshche neskol'ko mesyacev "sozrevayut" na sklade, chto pridaet rybe osobyj delikatnyj vkus. V original'nom recepte Fric ispol'zuet pol'skuyu vodku, hotya, konechno zhe, eto ne principial'no. Pyatnadcat' metrov (franc.) V poslednie gody v SSHA termin a la mode prinyal neskol'ko inoe znachenie -- tak amerikancy stali nazyvat' desert (chashche vsego pirog), kotoryj sverhu ukrashen morozhenym (vidimo, u nih teper' takaya moda); naprimer: apple pie a la mode -- yablochnyj pirog s morozhenym. V SSHA slivki po zhirnosti delyatsya na: light cream (nezhirnye) -- zhirnost' 18-30%; whipping cream (srednej zhirnosti, prednaznachennye dlya vzbivaniya) -- 30-36% i heavy cream (zhirnye) -- 36-40%. Na mirovom rynke osobenno shiroko cenitsya imenno ispanskij shafran, luchshie sorta kotorogo vyrashchivayut v La-Manche. Process prigotovleniya etogo testa opisan v recepte "Kruassany dlya voskresnogo zavtraka" (roman "Zolotye pauki", str. 197). V dannom sluchae potrebuetsya rovno polovina iz privedennogo v tom recepte kolichestva. V amerikanskih receptah mnogie blyuda gotovyat v special'noj zharovne (salamandre), gde progrev produkta idet sverhu, a ne snizu (naprimer, etogo legko dobit'sya s pomoshch'yu sovremennogo elektrogrilya). YAstyk -- plenka, v kotoroj zaklyuchena ryb'ya ikra ili moloki. V sovremennoj Avstralii terminom chicken Maryland nazyvayut nozhku cyplenka vmeste s bedryshkom. V dannom sluchae ispol'zuetsya choftng-dish -- special'naya kastryulya ili skovoroda, pod dnishchem kotoroj ustanovleno nagrevatel'noe ustrojstvo dlya prigotovleniya pishchi pryamo na stole ili dlya podderzhaniya blyuda v goryachem sostoyanii. |to sovsem ne amerikanskoe izobretenie -- podobnaya posuda "s podogrevom" byla najdena eshche pri raskopkah drevnej Pompei. Klaret (clairet) -- francuzskoe slovo s podachi anglichan stalo naricatel'nym dlya legkih svetlo-krasnyh bordoskih vin i bylo dovol'no shiroko rasprostraneno v dorevolyucionnoj Rossii. Kstati, recept "kroketov iz risa" privoditsya v znamenitoj dorevolyucionnoj knige Eleny Molohovsc. |tot recept zakanchivaetsya sleduyushchim. sovetom: "Pri prigotovlenii kroketov iz risa nado opuskat' ih v samyj kalenyj frityur i farsh nado delat' gustoj, chtoby ris ne razmok". Amerikanskie povara pol'zuyutsya plotnoj korichnevoj bumagoj, iz kotoroj v SSHA delayut pakety brown bag. V nih amerikancy nosyat produkty iz magazinov domoj, a takzhe prinosyat lanch na rabotu ili v shkolu (pakety dlya lancha, estestvenno, pomen'she). |ti dovol'no prochnye i legko skladyvayushchiesya pakety s ploskim dnom vpervye nachali delat' v Pensil'vanii eshche v 1852 godu, a k nastoyashchemu vremeni oni stali standartnymi dlya vsej pishchevoj industrii SSHA. I hotya primerno s 70-h godov XX veka bumazhnye pakety postepenno nachali vytesnyat'sya bolee deshevymi plastikovymi, amerikancy, bukval'no "pomeshannye" na zdorov'e i podozrevayushchie o kancerogennyh svojstvah iskusstvennyh plastmass i plastikov, vryad li tak bystro otkazhutsya ot nadezhnyh i privychnyh bumazhnyh. Amerikancy vmesto doski ohlazhdayut biskvit na special'nom ustrojstve, kotoroe Staut nazyvaet cake cooler (bukval'no "ohladitel' dlya pirogov") -- eto podstavka v vide provolochnoj setki na nozhkah, chto obespechivaet horoshuyu cirkulyaciyu vozduha vo vremya ohlazhdeniya formy. V russkih izdaniyah Stauta perevodchiki chasto ispol'zuyut slovo "lench". My pol'zuemsya slovom "lanch", tak kak schitaem takoe proiznoshenie anglijskogo lunch bolee pravil'nym. Tenderloin -- dlinnyj kusok myasa iz poyasnichnoj chasti hrebta govyazh'ej tushi (ot 13 rebra do tazovoj kosti), samoe, pozhaluj, nezhnoe i dorogoe myaso. V SSHA ego chasto markiruyut kak chateaubriand (shatobrian), tournedos (turnedo) i filet mignon (file-min'on). Tem ne menee, Staut upotreblyaet etot chisto "govyazhij" termin s dobavkoj "pork" (svinoj), chtoby podcherknut' ispol'zovanie v blyude otbornoj svinoj vyrezki. 23 Amerikancy chetko klassificiruyut krevetok po razmeram: extra colossal (sverhkolossal'nye) -- samye krupnye krevetki, kotoryh na 1 funt (450 g) prihoditsya menee 10 shtuk; colossal" (kolossal'nye) -- 10-15 shtuk na funt; extra jumbo (krupnye krsvetki-dzhambo -- po associacii s klichkoj legendarnogo afrikanskogo slona Dzhambo, zhivshego v londonskom zooparke vo vtoroj polovine XIX veka) -- 16-20 na funt; jumbo (krevetki-dzhambo) -- 21-25 krevetok na funt; extra large (sverhkrupnye) -- 26-30 krevetok na funt; large (krupnye) -- 31-35 krevetok na funt; medium large (sredne-krupnye) -- 36-42 krevetki na funt; medium (srednie) -- 43-50 krevetok na funt; small (melkie) -- bolee 50 krevetok na funt i miniature (miniatyurnye) -- samye malen'kie, okolo 100 krevetok na funt. Po povodu razmolotyh suharej prekrasno napisano v dorevolyucionnoj povarennoj knige Eleny Molohovec: "Obvalivaya chto-libo v yajce i, kak govoritsya v suharyah, nado brat' ne tolchenye suhari, a tertuyu cherstvuyu bulku". Odnako sejchas v XXI veke postupayut inache - so svezhej bulki srezayut korku, myakish zamorazhivayut, a zatem natirayut ego na terke. V rezul'tate poluchaetsya nezhnejshaya kroshka, v kotoroj i paniruyut produkty. Konfn (confit) -- sposob prigotovleniya myasa (chashe utki, gusya i svininy) dlya dlitel'nogo hraneniya. Vpervye poyavilsya vo francuzskoj provincii Gaskon'. Myaso dlya konfi snachala zasalivayut, chtoby udalit' iz nego vodu, a zatem tushat na samom malen'kom ogne v sobstvennom zhiru do teh por poka ne stanet nezhnym. Posle etogo myaso ohlazhdayut, pomeshchayut v glinyanyj gorshok i zalivayut zhirom, chtoby predotvratit' dostup vozduha. V processe hraneniya v zhiru myaso "sozrevaet", priobretaya sovershenno novyj vkus i aromat. Konfi -- obyazatel'nyj komponent v klassicheskom tuluzskom kassule. "Letnimi" kolbaskami (summer sausage) amerikancy nazyvayut syrokopchenuyu kolbasu, kotoruyu ne varyat, a srazu koptyat v techenie 4-7 sutok pri temperature 20°S (holodnoe kopchenie). Fric delaet takie kolbaski sam -- ih recept priveden v romane "Kogda chelovek ubivaet" (sm... str. 237). V lingvo-stranovedcheskom slovare "Velikobritaniya" (Russkij yazyk, 1978) daetsya drugoe ob®yasnenie: Prisoner's base -- "lager' plennyh" (detskaya igra s zahvatom protivnikov v plen) Belym sousom (whtle sauce) v SSHA nazyvayut prigotovlennyj iz zhira ili slivochnogo masla, muki, moloka, priprav, slivok ili bul'ona sous, podavaemyj k ovoshcham, rybe ili myasu. Sm. primechaniya k receptu yaic-pashot po-burgundski v romane "Smert' nalozhnicy" (str. 481). Sm. primechaniya k receptu golubej s kolbaskami i kvashenoj kapustoj v romane "Kogda chelovek ubivaet" (str. 236). Ob etoj vetchine podrobno rasskazano a romans "Slishkom mnogo povarov" (str. 70). 32 Metodisty (mstodistskaya cerkov') -- protsstanskaya cerkov', glavnym obrazom v SSHA i Velikobritanii. Voznikla v XVIII veke, otdelivshis' ot anglikanskoj cerkvi, trebuya posledovatel'nogo metodichnogo soblyudeniya vseh religioznyh predpisanij. Metodisty propoveduyut religioznoe smirenie i terpenie. Po amerikanskoj klassifikacii telyatinoj (veal) nazyvayut tol'ko myaso telenka v vozraste do 3 mesyacev -- golyashku, ili rul'ku (samuyu nizhnyuyu chast' nogi) imenno takogo telenka i predlagaetsya ispol'zovat' v recepte. Bolee vzroslogo telenka, v vozraste do 9 mesyacev (zdes' trebuyutsya 2 celyh nozhki, razrublennye vdol'), amerikancy nazyvayut calf. "Korichnevym" bul'onom (brown stock) amerikanskie povara nazyvayut bul'on, kotoryj poluchaetsya pri varke predvaritel'no obzharennyh produktov -- ovoshchej, myasa, ryby, kostej i dr. |to bazovyj sposob prigotovleniya ikry sheda, kotoryj budet vstrechat'sya prakticheski vo vseh receptah blyud iz etogo produkta. 275 Francuzskoe "Dom" (ot lat. dominus -- gospodin) -- pochetnyj titul monahov nekotoryh katolicheskih ordenov -- v nashej literature obychno perevoditsya kak "otec" i po-russki zvuchit kak "don". Pravda, v starinnyh knigah mozhno vstretit' i slovo "dom"; naprimer: dom-sholaster -- nastavnik i nadziratel' nad molodymi monahami. Angostura (Angostura) -- firmennoe nazvanie proizvodimoj s 1830 goda aromatnoj gor'koj spirtovoj nastojki krepost'yu 45%, kotoraya gotovitsya na osnove kornya gorechavki i kory yuzhnoamerikanskogo rutovogo dereva. "Angostura" yavlyaetsya "vazhnejshim" ingredientom mnogih izvestnyh koktejlej, hotya dazhe samye zayadlye lyubiteli priznayutsya, chto eta nastojka -- ne stol'ko ingredient, skol'ko polumificheskaya koldovskaya aura. Vy bukval'no na sekundu naklonyaete butylku nad bokalom, i magiya obyazatel'no srabatyvaet, prichem, nezavisimo ot togo, otkryta butylka ili net... Osobuyu izvestnost' v Rossii priobrela svoim kachestvom achuevskaya ikra (Achuevskij rybnyj zavod raspolozhen na vostochnom beregu Azovskogo morya). YAblochnyj sous (applesauce) -- yablochnoe pyure, prigotovlennoe iz yablok, sahara i specij. Takoj produkt edyat v kachestve deserta ili ispol'zuyut kak pripravu k myasnym blyudam, naprimer, k dichi. V Novoj Anglii (SSHA) takoj "sous" chashche nazyvayut apple sass. Imeetsya v vidu cream cheese (slivochnyj syr) -- myagkij nevyderzhannyj syr (fakticheski ego raznovidnost' tvoroga) iz korov'ego moloka s dobavleniem slivok. |to naibolee rasprostranennyj ingredient amerikanskih tvorozhnyh pudingov i sladkih vatrushek. Vpervye takoj syr-tvorog v 1920 godu stala vyrabatyvat' n'yu-jorkskaya kompaniya Breakstone's Dounsville Cream Cheese i on srazu zhe zavoeval ogromnuyu populyarnost' v evrejskih obshchinah N'yu-Jorka, gde ego obychno namazyvali na bageli (bagel' pohozh pa nash bublik, no bolee porist i myagok). Standartnaya amerikanskaya upakovka -- 8 uncij (240 g); takim obrazom, v recepte ispol'zuyutsya 2 paketa Pechen' samca omara (tomalley), kotoraya nahoditsya pod spinkoj omara i v otvarnom vide priobretaet zelenyj cvet, tak zhe kak i ochen' nezhnuyu korallovo-rozovuyu ikru samki (coral), istinnye znatoki schitayut izyskannym delikatesom i samoj vkusnoj chast'yu etogo morskogo rakoobraznogo (sm. recept omara pod sousom iz belogo vina v romane "Krov' skazhet", na str. 429). V original'nom tekste -- shirt sleeves (bukval'no "v rukavah rubashki"), to est' "v odnoj rubashke", a ne "v rubashke s korotkimi rukavami" (kak v oboih perevodah); eta idioma prishla v anglijskij, po vsej veroyatnosti, iz francuzskogo yazyka. Vermontskij chedder (Vermont Cheddar) -- ostryj svetlo-zheltyj amerikanskij syr (raznovidnost' anglijskogo cheddera) s ochen' harakternym vkusom; sushchestvuet dazhe versiya Vermont sage Cheddar s dobavkoj shalfeya (sage). Fric v etom blyude obychno ispol'zuet "letnie" (syrokopchenye) kolbaski sobstvennogo prigotovleniya, recept kotoryh priveden v romane "Kogda chelovek ubivaet" (str. 237). Navel' (navel orange) -- sort "pupochnyh" (ot "navel" -- pupok) krupnyh bessemyannyh apel'sinov s legko ochishchaemoj yarko-oranzhevoj kozhuroj. Oguzok (round) -- osnovnaya chast' serediny bedra (zadnej nogi) myasnoj tushi, raspolozhennaya blizhe k linii bedrennoj kosti; dovol'no zhestkoe myaso bez kostej s nebol'shim kolichestvom zhira. Verhnyuyu chast' etogo kuska amerikancy nazyvayut top round. Kostrec (rump) -- treugol'nyj kusok, vyrezannyj iz samoj verhnej chasti serediny bedra (zadnej nogi) govyazh'ej tushi. |to ochen' vkusnoe myaso obychno narezaetsya na rump steak (romshteks), a to myaso, kotoroe ostaetsya s kostochkami, nazyvaetsya standing rump roast. Ego luchshe vsego tushit'. V klassicheskom recepte etogo blyuda ispol'zuyutsya tak nazyvaemye "maslyanye boby" (butter bean) -- tak v Novoj Anglii, na yuge SSHA (v Luiziane) i v nekotoryh central'nyh amerikanskih shtatah nazyvayut zheltye s®edobnye struchki fasoli, kotorye ispol'zuyut v salatah, supah i ragu. Kanadskim bekonom (Canadian bacon) amerikancy nazyvayut proizvodimuyu v Kanade postnuyu kopchenuyu svininu (ona dovol'no chasto ispol'zuetsya v receptah Frica). Takoe myaso stoit dorozhe obychnogo bekona i postupaet v prodazhu krupnymi kuskami -- ego mozhno zharit', zapekat' ili ispol'zovat' holodnym v sendvichah i salatah. Sami kanadcy nazyvayut etu svininu back bacon. Anglijskie mafiny -- vid oladij, podrobno opisannyj v rassledovanii romana "CHerez moj trup" (str. 117). Konkord (Concord) -- sort chernogo vinograda, kul'tiviruemogo na vostochnom poberezh'e SSHA. |tot vinograd vpervye byl vyrashchen v 1849 godu v g. Konkord (shtat Massachusets) selekcionerom |fraimom Uel'som Bullem i ispol'zuetsya, v osnovnom, dlya prigotovleniya vin, sokov, dzhemov i zhele, a takzhe kak obychnyj stolovyj vinograd. ZHele iz etogo sorta vinograda schitaetsya samym rasprostranennym v SSHA. Segodnya bolee 80% vinograda, vyrashchivaemogo v shtate N'yu-Jork, -- vinograd Konkord. Bing (Bing) -- ochen' populyarnyj sort temnoj, inogda dazhe fioletovo-chernoj chereshni. M. L'yuis (1774-1809) i U. Klark (1770-1838) -- amerikanskie pervoprohodcy.